Cedar-Plank Salmon

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The past few weeks have been busy.  I’m in the middle of a few different projects, resulting in some long days and evenings stuck at my computer.  Weeknight meals have therefore become simplified: quick, throw together pastas; fast clean-out-the-fridge tacos; and anything and everything on the grill, which, come springtime, becomes our savior for easy meals that require minimal clean-up.

Cedar-plank salmon is one of those too-easy-to-believe recipes that results in a meal that feels much more luxurious than a harried Tuesday deserves.  A quick brush of Dijon mustard (sweetened with maple syrup, if I’m in the mood), a sprinkle of fresh herbs (almost anything will do) and some salt and pepper is all that’s needed to transform a piece of wild salmon into a starring centerpiece.  The fish gets grilled right on the plank, which gives it a unique and wonderful smoky, herbal flavor.   After about 10-15 minutes, depending on the size of your fish, dinner is served.  The only trick is that the cedar plank needs to soak for at least two hours before grilling, so if you’re going to be home late, plop it in some water before heading to work.

Grilled asparagus, boiled potatoes, leftover grains and sautéed greens are all good accompaniments to the salmon.  Last week it was zucchini “noodles” (tossed with hazelnut oil, lemon juice, basil and chopped hazelnuts), and quickly sautéed spinach, because, well, that’s what was hiding in the vegetable drawer. We ate outside by our newly planted garden, and work felt as far away as winter.

Cedar-Plank Salmon

Serves: 4

  • Skin-on wild salmon, either 1 large fillet, or individual fillets
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Dijon or whole grain mustard
  • Maple syrup (optional)
  • Chopped herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, basil, tarragon and/or chives
  1. Soak a cedar plank in water for at least 2 hours, or longer (I place a bowl on top to keep the board submerged).
  2. Preheat a grill to medium-high.
  3. Remove the plank from the water and pat dry.  Arrange the salmon on top (skin side down).  Season with salt and pepper.  Brush the salmon with mustard or a mix of equal parts mustard and maple syrup.  Sprinkle with fresh herbs (any herbs or combinations you can rustle up will do).
  4. Grill the salmon, covered, until it flakes with a fork and is browned around the edges but still pink in the middle.  Serve warm or at room temperature (while I love salmon skin, I don’t serve it in this case, as it’s rubbery).  Mmm, mmm, slowly forget about your day…

Italian-Style White Bean & Millet Bake

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Ever since I developed the Chili Millet Bake recipe, I’ve been dreaming about other “millet bake” variations.  This Italian-take combines white beans, mushrooms and Swiss chard in a rich tomato-based stew, which then gets topped with a thick layer of Parmesan-laced millet.  The whole thing is baked until bubbly around the edges.  The creamy millet, which gets slightly crisp around the edges, is delicious on its own but phenomenal with a garlicky bite of the beans and greens below.

The leftovers are great the next day for lunch… or breakfast.  After an arduous morning of building garden beds a few weeks ago (see rock excavating below), James heated up leftovers of the millet bake and slid a fried egg on top.  With a sprinkle of red pepper flakes and a shaving of Parmesan, it was a breakfast of champions.  He even found the strength to finish the vegetable beds.

Italian-Style White Bean & Millet Bake

This rich Italian-style stew of white beans, tomatoes, mushrooms and Swiss chard gets topped with a cheesy layer of millet.  The millet is crisp around the edges and creamy in the middle—the perfect foil for the flavorful stew below.  Serve the dish straight out of the skillet at the table.

Serves: 4

  • 1 cup millet
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt plus additional for seasoning
  • 1 tablespoon butter or ghee
  • 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, divided (I grate it on a microplane), plus more for serving
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced (I usually use cremini, but any variety will do)
  • 2 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 bunch Swiss chard, bottom stems trimmed, leaves and other stems finely chopped
  • 2 cups cooked cannellini beans or 1 15-ounce can, drained and rinsed
  • 1 14-ounce can stewed tomatoes or tomato puree, or 2 cups leftover marinara sauce
  • Pinch cinnamon
  • Fresh basil for serving (optional)
  1. If you have the time, soak the millet (to remove the phytic acid – if you don’t have time or if you forget, don’t sweat it). Preheat the oven to 375˚F.
  2. In a medium saucepan, bring 3 cups water to a boil.  Add 1 teaspoon sea salt and the millet.  Bring to boil.  Reduce heat to low simmer; cover and cook 15-20 minutes, or until the water is absorbed and millet is tender.  Stir in the butter or ghee, along with ½ cup of the cheese.  Season to taste with additional salt, if needed.  Cover and keep warm.
  3. While the millet cooks, start the filling.  In a 12-inch (preferably cast iron) skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onions with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender, about 5-6 minutes.  Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4-5 minutes.  Sprinkle in the garlic, thyme and red pepper flakes.  Add the tomato paste.  Stir 1 minute.  Add the Swiss chard and a pinch of salt and pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are wilted.  Stir in the tomatoes, ½ cup water, the cannellini beans and a pinch of cinnamon.  Bring to a boil and simmer 3-5 minutes, or until thickened.  Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.
  4. Dollop the millet over the filling and spread it out in a smooth layer (it doesn’t have to be perfect!).  Sprinkle on the remaining cheese.  Bake 15 minutes, or until bubbling and lightly golden around the edges.  Let cool 5 minutes.  Spoon the mixture into wide bowls and garnish with freshly sliced or torn basil (if you’d like) and grated Parmigiano.

 

Coconut Lime Panna Cotta with Roasted Berries

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Every once in a while a recipe just doesn’t work out.  Last week I wanted to create a simple and fast fruit dessert using berries and mascarpone for a class I was teaching—I was envisioning a broiled custard-like dish that could be thrown together quickly.  But, long story short, I didn’t like the results.  After numerous tests, and a recipe that was getting increasingly complicated, I backed up and changed routes.  I kept the coconut and lime flavors of the original, as well as the broiled fruit, but instead made a quick panna cotta base.  The result was light yet luscious and perfectly suited for warm weather entertaining.  Sometimes it takes a fail to make a hit.

The panna cotta is adapted from Heidi Swanson’s Super Natural Cooking.  It uses agar agar, a thickening agent made from algae, instead of gelatin (making this vegetarian friendly).  It uses only five ingredients—coconut milk, milk, sugar, lime zest and agar—and comes together in minutes on the stovetop.  Once the agar dissolves and the mixture coats the back of a spoon, it’s strained, poured into ramekins and popped into the fridge to set.  Done.  The result is creamy and delicate with aromas of lime and coconut.

If I’m alone, you might catch me eating the panna cotta by itself straight out of the ramekin—it’s a not-too-sweet tidbit to end a meal.  A topping, however, not only amps up the flavor, but also gives the dish visual appeal.  I know it’s way too early for berry season (at least here in the Northeast), but I couldn’t resist using them here (my spring fever has turned into summer fever).  The flavors of lime and coconut marry wonderfully with broiled blueberries, raspberries and blackberries, which create a syrupy “sauce” that has just the right consistency to drizzle over the panna cotta (it’s also a great sauce for ice cream or pancakes).  For a more seasonal approach, however, try stewed rhubarb or a strawberry coulis. Sprinkled with toasted coconut flakes, it’s an impressive dessert, and nobody has to know how easy it was. This is definitely going to become a summertime staple!

Coconut Lime Panna Cotta with Roasted Berries

Silky and light, this luscious but easy-to-make panna cotta is flavored with coconut and lime, and garnished with roasted berries.  It’s a simple but elegant dessert that’s perfect for spring and summer entertaining.  The base for the panna cotta is adapted from Heidi Swanson’s Super Natural Cooking.

Panna Cotta

  • Coconut oil or butter for ramekins
  • 1 14-ounce can coconut milk
  • 1 ¼ cups milk
  • 1/3 cup natural cane sugar
  • 1 teaspoon lime zest
  • 1 ½ tablespoons agar agar flakes*

Berries

  • 4 cups mixed berries, such as blueberries, raspberries and blackberries
  • 1 tablespoon lime juice
  • 1 tablespoon sugar (or to taste)
  • Toasted coconut flakes for serving (optional)
  1. Lightly oil 6 ramekins.
  2. In a small saucepan, combine the coconut milk, milk, sugar, lime zest and agar flakes.  Stir to combine with a rubber spatula; let sit 10 minutes to let the agar soften.  Over medium heat, slowly bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring often.  Cook at a gentle simmer (adjusting the heat as necessary), stirring often, for 4-5 minutes or until the agar is mostly dissolved and the mixture coats the back of a spoon.  Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a large measuring cup or bowl (something with a spout will make it easy to pour into the ramekins), pressing the agar through (be sure to scrape the bottom of the strainer).  Pour the liquid into the prepared ramekins.  Chill, uncovered, until set, about 1 hour.   Do Ahead: The panna cotta can be made up to 2 days in advance.  After the panna cotta has set, cover the ramekins. 
  3. Preheat the oven to broil with a rack in the upper third.  Toss the berries with the sugar and lime juice.  Put the berries in a 9×13-inch baking dish or rimmed baking sheet and spread in one layer.  Broil until the fruit starts to darken and pop, about 5-6 minutes.  Scrape the berries and any juice into a bowl and let cool.  Do Ahead: The berries can be roasted the day before and refrigerated, or roasted 2 hours in advance and left at room temperature. 
  4. To serve, run a sharp knife around the edge of a ramekin; invert the ramekin onto a plate; and shake firmly up and down until the panna cotta slides out (you can also serve the panna cottas in the ramekins with the fruit spooned on top).  Spoon the roasted berries and their juice over the panna cotta and garnish with toasted coconut flakes.

*Agar is a flavorless gelling agent made from algae.

 

Radish Butter with Baguette Slices

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I’m not sure when I first tasted the combination of radishes, butter and salt, but it was well into my twenties.  Growing up in the Midwest, radishes for me were an ignored garnish on iceberg salads, and I can’t remember actually ever eating one whole.  It was either when I studied in France or when we lived in New York City that I must have discovered how delicious they could be—crisp, cooling and slightly spicy, perfect for swiping through a cool dip, or, better yet, slathering with butter.  Butter tames their wild edge, embracing them like cashmere, and a sprinkle of sea salt adds dazzle.  While I personally love the combination, I’ve found that whenever I serve radishes with their squiggly ends trimmed alongside a pot of butter and flaked sea salt to guests, they barely get touched, no matter how beautiful the platter might look.  I have a feeling it’s because eating them is an awkward thing.  Butter doesn’t spread easily on a radish’s slippery surface, and the radishes dry out quickly, turning pale and warped.  So when a friend served me radish butter a while back, it was a revelation.  Slathered over fresh bread (gluten-free, for me), it’s easily one of my favorite springtime nibbles.

The butter comes together quickly.  The radishes are first shredded in the food processor, then squeezed dry.  Room temperature butter—I use a high quality cultured butter—is then whizzed in the same processor (make sure processor is first wiped dry—water is not a friend to fat) until smooth, to which the radishes and sea salt are added.  Serve the butter on baguette slices, toasted crostini, or in tea sandwiches.  I’ve even tossed it with Ella’s pasta.

Oh, and don’t throw away those green tops!  Sauté them like spinach, toss them in your pasta or tear them into your salad.

Radish Butter with Baguette Slices

This recipe is so much more than the sum of its parts.  The classic combination of radishes, butter and sea salt is elevated here in an elegant compound butter.  It’s an utterly simple but delicious hors d’oeuvre.  Use the best quality butter and bread you can find.  You can also spread the butter over little toasts, or use it in tea sandwiches.

  • 6-7 ounces radishes (from 1 bunch, 6-8 medium radishes), ends trimmed
  • 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened (I like to use a good quality cultured butter)
  • ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
  • Sliced baguette for serving
  1. Using a food processor with the shredder disk, shred the radishes.  Wrap the shredded radishes in paper towels and squeeze out the excess liquid (squeeze hard!).  Wipe the food processor dry and put the blade in.  Add the butter and process until smooth.  Add the radishes and salt.  Pulse, scraping often, until the radishes are incorporated into the butter (they should be chopped but not pureed; the mixture might look a bit crumbly).  Spread the radish butter over baguette slices.

Pork Chops with Shallot Caper Sauce

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We’re lucky to live minutes away from a gorgeous farm called Glynwood, a nonprofit farm that not only sells its produce, meat and eggs (through a CSA program and directly off of the farm), but that also works with communities to preserve farmland and support local farmers and sustainability efforts.  A couple of weeks ago Ella and I stopped by to visit the new baby sheep and goats and came home with a satchel of pasture-raised beef, chicken and pork for the freezer (for me, there are few things as satisfying as having a freezer full of delicious dinner options).  One Friday I tossed some pork chops in the fridge on our way out the door for a weekend trip.  On Sunday evening, when we arrived home tired and hungry (and without groceries), the chops were defrosted and ready for the skillet.  A quick pan sauce of pantry staples—shallots, garlic, capers, white wine and some parsley that was bundled away in the vegetable drawer—made for an extraordinary combination with the Glynwood pork.

The sauce is intensely flavorful, and I suspect it would also be an excellent complement to sautéed white fish (think flounder or halibut) or thinly pounded chicken breasts.  The meat itself had an unparalleled flavor—I’m not sure if James was impressed or revolted by the fact that I not only cleaned my bone, but also his.  Farm-raised pork has real flavor that’s as far from the bland (and often tough) chops from the mega-mart as farmstead cheddar is from pre-packaged slices of American.  Paired with butter-roasted potatoes from our cellar and a simple salad of (slightly wilted) greens, it was a beautiful meal that made us forget all about our unpacked suitcases and awaiting laundry.

Pork Chops with Shallot Caper Sauce

These pork chops are so simple but so delicious.  They get topped with an intensely flavorful but simple pan sauce made with shallots, garlic, capers, white wine and parsley.  It’s worth searching out farm-raised pork from local farms or farmer’s markets.  It has an incomparable flavor and stays much more moist than supermarket pork chops (not to mention they’re being much better for the environment).  I like to serve these chops with a simple arugula salad and roasted fingerling potatoes or sweet potato fries.

Serves: 4

  • 4 (1-inch-thick) bone-in pork chops
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1-2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
  • 2 tablespoons ghee or olive oil
  • 1/3 cup minced shallots (about 1 large shallot)
  • 4 large cloves garlic, minced
  • ¼ cup capers, drained
  • ¼ cup white wine
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
  • 1 tablespoon butter or ghee
  1. Preheat the oven to 425˚F.  Pat the pork chops dry.  Season them generously with salt and pepper and sprinkle them with thyme on both sides.  Let sit at room temperature at least 15 minutes or up to an hour.
  2. Heat the ghee or olive oil in a large skillet (I use my cast iron skillet for this) over medium-high heat.  Once hot, add the pork chops.  Cook until golden brown on the bottom, about 5-7 minutes.  Turn the chops over and cook 1 minute.  Transfer skillet to the oven.  Roast 8-10 minutes or until cooked through (the internal temperature should be 145˚F).
  3. Transfer the pork chops to a platter or plates and tent with foil to keep warm.  Pour off most of the fat in the skillet.  Put the skillet over medium heat and add the shallots and garlic with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Cook, stirring, until fragrant and softened, 2-3 minutes.  Stir in the capers and cook 30 seconds.  Pour in the white wine and simmer until reduced by half (there won’t be much liquid left).  Remove the pan from heat and stir in the butter and parsley.  If any juices have accumulated under the pork, pour them into the sauce as well.  Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper, if needed.  Spoon the sauce over the pork chops and serve.

 

 

 

Pea & Goat Cheese Crostini

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I’m writing this on the first day of spring, but there are about six inches of snow outside my window.  As I mentioned in my last post, I have a dire case of spring fever.  My inspiration in the kitchen has been waning, sullenly stuck with winter stews while craving spring sautés.  Today called for serious measures.  Out came my daffodil-yellow striped shirt (totally inappropriate for these temperatures), and into the food processor went this pea and goat cheese spread for crostini.  It tastes of spring, even if winter stubbornly refuses to budge.

Peas (either garden fresh, or, in this case, frozen and defrosted) get buzzed with garlic, goat cheese, Parmesan, herbs and lemon juice for a creamy, vibrant spread that’s amazing slathered on garlic-rubbed toast, tucked into ravioli or even tossed with pasta.  It’s makes for a lovely appetizer (either on crostini or as a dip for veggies—think fennel spears, endives, radishes, baby carrots…), and it’s easy to whip together on a moment’s notice.

Close your eyes; take a bite; and forget all about the snow outside.

Pea & Goat Cheese Spread with Crostini

Serve these delicious crostini as a side dish, or as an appetizer with a few thinly sliced radishes or curls of Parmesan on top.  The spread is also a lovely dip for veggies, and a delicious ravioli filling!

Makes: 1 ¼ cups

For the Crostini

  • French bread, cut on the diagonal into ½ inch slices (you can make as few or as many as you’d like)
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Salt and pepper
  • 1 garlic clove, halved

For the Pea & Goat Cheese Spread

  • 1 ½ cups peas (defrosted if frozen, or blanched in salt water if fresh)
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • 2 ounces goat cheese
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs, such as mint, basil, tarragon and/or thyme
  • 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus additional for serving
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  1. For the crostini, heat the oven or (a toaster oven also works well if you’re making a small batch) to 375˚.  Brush each slice of bread on both sides with olive oil.  Line the bread on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Cook 6-8 minutes, or until lightly crisp on the bottom.  Flip and cook an additional 6-8 minutes, or until toasted on the other side.  Remove the pan from the oven and immediately rub each crostini with garlic.  Do Ahead:  The crostini can be made several hours in advance and left out at room temperature.
  2. In a food processor with the blade running, add the garlic and finely chop.  Add the peas to the processor along with the goat cheese, herbs, Parmesan cheese, lemon juice, water and a pinch of salt and pepper.  Process to a slightly chunky puree, scraping down the sides occasionally.  Add the extra virgin olive oil and process until just combined.  Taste and add additional salt and pepper if needed.  Serve the spread on crostini with a drizzle of good olive oil, or with vegetables for dipping.  Do Ahead: The spread can be made up to 1 day in advance and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator.

 

 

Shrimp Tacos with Pumpkin Seed & Spinach Pesto

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I don’t know about you, but I have a serious case of spring fever.  I’ve been craving bright new flavors, and, while it’s still too early for asparagus and peas, this is just the meal to trick me into thinking the temperature is twenty degrees warmer.  Sautéed shrimp get tossed with a pumpkin seed & spinach pesto, then layered into corn tortillas with avocados, feta and a lime-dressed Napa cabbage slaw (and, for me, a liberal drizzle of hot sauce).  It’s a quick, nutritious meal that speaks of sunshine, no matter the time of year.

The pesto is made with pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, spinach, cilantro, jalapeño, lime juice and olive oil—brimming with nutrition and flavor.  It’s slightly smoky and just a tad spicy.  It’s also fabulous on grilled fish, chicken, thinly sliced steak, or spooned into soup (I can’t wait to try it with this Sweet Corn Soup).

As we ate dinner last night, watching the sun sink down the hill in the backyard, we started to plan out our herb plots and garden beds.  Spring is just around the corner.  I can taste it.

Shrimp Tacos with Pumpkin Seed & Spinach Pesto

Pumpkin Seed & Spinach Pesto has a smoky, nutty flavor that pairs wonderfully with shrimp in these quick, delicious and nutritious tacos.  The pumpkin seeds for the pesto need to soak for 6-10 hours, so start them in the morning or the night before.

Serves: 4

  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 1 large lime)
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 cups shredded Napa cabbage (about ½ head)
  • 1 pound shelled and deveined wild shrimp, tails discarded
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin coconut oil or olive oil
  • Pumpkin Seed Pesto (see below)
  • Warm corn tortillas for serving (I toast them in a hot, dry skillet, wrapping them in a kitchen towel as I go to keep them warm)
  • Avocado slices for serving
  • Crumbled feta cheese for serving
  • Hot sauce for serving (optional)
  1. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice and olive oil.  Season with salt and pepper.  Put the cabbage in a large bowl and set aside.
  2. Season shrimp with salt and pepper.  Melt the coconut oil or olive oil in a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.  Add the shrimp and spread them out in one layer.  Cook until pink on bottom, about 1 ½-2 minutes.  Turn and cook until pink on other side and cooked through (they should be white throughout), about 1 ½-2 minutes longer.  Transfer to large bowl and add 1/3 – ½ cup Pumpkin Seed & Spinach Pesto.  Toss well to coat.
  3. Toss the cabbage with the lime dressing.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  4. To assemble the tacos, pile a few shrimp on a warm tortilla and top with avocado slices, a sprinkle of feta cheese and some of the cabbage.  Drizzle with hot sauce, if desired.  Enjoy!

 

Pumpkin Seed & Spinach Pesto

This nutritious pesto, packed with pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, spinach and cilantro, has a slightly smoky and nutty flavor, with a zip of fresh lime juice and a bit of spice from jalapeño.  It’s delicious with fish, chicken, meat or pasta.  Be sure to start the pesto in the morning, as the pumpkin seeds need to soak for 6-10 hours.

Makes: ¾ cup

  • ¼ cup pumpkin seeds
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 2 tablespoons hemp seeds
  • ½ cup packed cilantro leaves and tender stems
  • 1 cup packed baby spinach leaves
  • ½ jalapeño, seeded and diced
  • Juice of ½ lime, plus more to taste
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
  1. Cover the pumpkin seeds with warm water and soak 6-10 hours.  Drain and rinse.
  2. In a food processor with the blade running, add the garlic and finely chop.  Add the drained pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, cilantro, spinach, jalapeño and lime juice.  Season with salt and pepper.   Process until finely chopped, scraping down the sides as needed.  With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil.  Taste and season with additional salt, pepper and/or lime juice if desired.   Do Ahead: The pesto can be covered and refrigerated for up to 5 days.

Buckwheat Crepes

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As some of you may have noticed, most of my recipes are gluten free.   There’s a reason.  I don’t eat gluten.  I have a thyroid condition, which gluten apparently exacerbates.  Last year my doctor ordered gluten out of my diet.  At first it was a shock.  “What?  How?  I’m a CHEF!  I can’t cut FLOUR from my diet!!”  But as soon as I started to feel the differences it made in my health, I knew the payoff was well worth the cost.  I don’t know if it will be forever, and I don’t think of myself as a “gluten-free” chef (I still develop gluten-filled recipes for clients), but just as somebody who tries to create delicious recipes, whether or not they contain wheat protein or not.

This recipe is the perfect example.  Yes, it happens to be gluten-free, but it’s definitely worth trying, whatever your wheat tolerance.  Buckwheat is a seed (not related to wheat), and (lucky for me) it doesn’t have any gluten.  In France, buckwheat flour, which has a toasted, nutty flavor, has been transformed into crêpes for generations.  This version is incredibly simple, and creates a batter that’s a cinch to work with (you don’t have to worry about throwing out your first batch!).  It might take a crêpe or two to get the hang of swirling the batter into the hot pan (it’s all in the wrist!), but trust me, egg-shaped crêpes taste just as good as a perfectly round ones.

In this recipe, the crêpes get stuffed with a classic combination of melted cheese and ham, brightened with thinly sliced apples and grainy mustard, and topped with lightly dressed greens.  They’re elegant and delicious, equally suitable for Ella’s lunchbox (sans greens) or dinner with friends.  I can’t wait to experiment with other fillings: spinach and mushrooms with goat cheese; lox with dill-scented crème fraiche; chocolate, pears and hazelnuts; apple compote with honey and fresh ricotta…

Believe it or not, omitting gluten from my diet has been easier than I thought.  While there certainly are challenges (I’ll never enjoy being that girl at the restaurant who can’t eat gluten), from a chef’s standpoint, it’s actually been really interesting.  My eyes (and palate) have opened up a world of ingredients that I hadn’t experimented with before, such as millet, teff, amaranth, nut flours, and, of course, buckwheat.  Delicious!

Buckwheat Crêpes

Buckwheat crêpes are surprisingly simple to make and have a unique nutty flavor.  Here they’re stuffed with cheese, ham, apples and grainy mustard, but let your imagination be your guide.  Try spinach, mushrooms and goat cheese; smoked salmon, dill and crème fraiche; or pears with chocolate-hazelnut spread.

Makes: 6-8 crêpes

Crêpes:

  • 1 cup milk
  • 3 large eggs
  • ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon honey or sugar
  • 1 tablespoon butter, ghee or coconut oil, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for cooking
  • 1 cup (4 ounces) buckwheat flour

Fillings:

  • Whole grain or Dijon mustard
  • Shredded cheese (gruyere, Comté, cheddar… whatever you like)
  • Good quality sliced ham
  • Very thin apple slices (I prefer a crisp-sweet variety, such as Honeycrisp or Fuji)
  • Mixed greens lightly dressed with lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and black pepper
  1. Whisk together the milk, eggs, salt, honey and butter until smooth.   Add the buckwheat flour and whisk until well combined.  You can refrigerate the batter several hours in advance, or you can cook the crêpes right away.  If you make the batter in advance, give it a good whisk before continuing.
  2. Place a small teaspoon of butter or oil in a 12-inch nonstick pan over medium heat.  Once hot, use a paper towel to rub the butter all over the bottom of the pan to lightly coat.  Add a scant 1/3 cup of the batter (I use a measuring cup for this) and swirl the pan, lifting and tilting it in a circle, to evenly coat the bottom.  Let cook until golden brown in spots on the bottom and edges, about 1-3 minutes (your first crêpe might take a little longer if your pan isn’t hot enough—let her cook until she’s ready, those golden spots equal flavor).  Using a spatula, loosen the edges of the crêpe, then use your fingers to flip it over.  Cook until golden in spots on the other side, about 30-60 seconds longer.  Slide the crêpe onto a plate.  Repeat with the rest of the batter, whisking the batter and rubbing the pan with a bit more butter/oil between batches.  Stack the crêpes as they’re cooked.  Do Ahead: The crêpes can be made up to 1 day in advance.  Let cool then store in a large ziptop bag in the refrigerator.
  3. Preheat the oven to 375˚F.  Line the crêpes on a work surface.  Spread a thin layer of whole grain or Dijon mustard on half of each crêpe.  Top with shredded cheese, a slice or two of ham, and a few thin slices of apple.   Fold the crêpes in half and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Bake 8-10 minutes, or until the cheese is melted.  Transfer to plates and garnish with the greens.

Quick Vegetable Potage with Cheddar Crisps

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I studied in the south of France during college, and like so many cooks before me, it’s where I discovered my passion for food.  As the weather cooled, my host mom (mère Michelle) would serve a steaming bowl of potage to start each meal.  It was a thick soup of pureed vegetables—whatever she picked up from the market that day—with root vegetables as the base.  It was hazy with aromas of garlic and herbs, warming and pure.  This version is as simple as it is satisfying.  It has a base of onions, carrots and celery, scented with garlic and thyme, and is thickened with sweet potatoes.  The whole thing comes together in less than thirty minutes.  To make a meal of it, I serve the soup with cheddar crisps, my own American-grilled-cheese interpretation.  This is comfort food, after all.  Baguette slices get toasted until crisp, then topped with shredded cheddar (or whatever cheese I have on hand) and popped back in the oven until the cheese is melted.  Sometimes I rub the toasted bread with garlic before adding the cheese, for an extra kick.

The meal takes me right back to France, while rooting me here in America.  It’s the perfect meal to escape these mid-winter meal blues.

Quick Vegetable Potage with Cheddar Crisps

Serves: 4-6

Healthy, simple and utterly satisfying, this is comfort food at it’s finest!  Cheddar crisps are the perfect accompaniment to a steaming bowl of vegetable potage, or thick soup.  This delicious (and nutritious) version gets whizzed together in less than thirty minutes and uses ingredients you probably already have on hand.  Dunk a crisp into the hot soup, take a cheesy bite, and welcome to heaven!

  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing crisps
  • 2 medium onions, diced
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
  • 2 stalks celery, diced
  • 1 ½ teaspoons salt, divided, plus additional for seasoning
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus additional for seasoning
  • 2 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
  • 1 ½ lbs sweet potatoes (2 medium), peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • 1 lemon wedge
  • ½ baguette, cut on the diagonal into ½-inch slices
  • 1 cup packed shredded cheddar (2.5-ounces)
  1. Preheat the oven to 450˚F.  Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil.
  2. In a large saucepan, heat ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onions, carrots and celery, along with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 8-10 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook, stirring, 30 seconds.  Add the sweet potatoes, bay leaves, thyme sprigs and remaining ½ teaspoon salt, along with 5 cups water.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, 10-15 minutes, or until the sweet potatoes and vegetables are tender.
  3. Remove the bay leaves and thyme sprigs.  Using a blender or hand blender, puree the soup until smooth.  Season with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice to taste.
  4. In the meantime, make the cheddar crisps.  Line the baguette slices on the prepared baking sheet and brush them lightly on both sides with olive oil.  Season with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Bake 4-6 minutes, or until lightly crisp on top.  Turn the bread over and cook another 3-5 minutes, or until crisp on the other side.  Mound the cheese evenly over each crisp.  Bake 1-2 minutes, or until the cheese is just melted.  Serve warm or at room temperature with the soup.

 

Falafel with Tahini Yogurt Sauce

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Meet my new obsession.  After moving to the Hudson Valley last year, I’ve been dreaming about falafel.  It’s one of my favorite comfort foods—born during our years in New York City—but there are none to be found in these parts, not even any facsimiles.  Thus began my crusade to create my own.  Let me tell you, it’s been worth every bite.  These ladies are verdant with fresh herbs (literally, notice their green color), garlic and spices, with a crisp crust and tender center.  Drizzled with a bright, lemony Tahini Yogurt Sauce, they beat any falafel stand.  Oh, and did I mention that they can be either baked or fried?  Mmm, mmm, I’m doing my falafel dance.

I have to be honest, this recipe doesn’t quite meet my parameters of “meals and recipes from scratch in under an hour,” but it’s close, and the results are worth breaking the rules slightly.  It’s still very doable during a workweek with a bit of planning.  The first step actually starts the day before—soaking the chickpeas.  I love Sally Fallon’s cookbook Nourishing Traditions, and she recommends soaking the chickpeas in boiling water and lemon juice.  Not only does this make the chickpeas more digestible and nutritious, but it also makes for an incredibly smooth-textured falafel.  The soaking plumps and hydrates the chickpeas so they don’t need to be cooked at all before making the patties.  They’re simply drained then blended with the rest of the ingredients in a food processor.   I spread the mixture out into a pan and pop it into the freezer to help it cool quickly (this helps the falafel hold their shape).  From there, the mixture is formed into patties and then fried or baked.

I highly suggest giving frying a go—it creates a more authentic result with a lighter texture, moister center and a crisper crust.  Deep frying gets a bad rap for being difficult and unhealthy, but in reality, it’s not hard at all and not much worse from a health standpoint than sautéing (if done properly not much oil is absorbed).  The trick is to get the oil to the right temperature.  I confess I hardly ever use a thermometer but instead throw a little bit of the falafel mixture into the pot to test the temp; if it starts bubbling, it’s ready to go.  If it sinks with no action, the oil is too cold, and if it sputters like a madwoman and browns instantly, it’s too hot.  You’ll get a feel for it, I promise.  Baking the falafel is a great alternative, but you’ll get denser and drier patties (the flavor is still delicious, however, and it’s nothing a little extra Tahini Yogurt Sauce can’t fix). Now I have even fewer reasons to make the trek back into the city to satisfy my food cravings.  Although, I have been pining for some pastrami…

From Scratch Falafel with Tahini Yogurt Sauce

These falafel are brimming with fresh herbs, garlic and spices.  They can be either baked or fried, but frying will create a more authentic result with a lighter texture, moister center and a crisper crust.  Baking will create denser and drier falafel, but the flavor is still delicious, and it’s nothing a little extra Tahini Yogurt Sauce can’t fix.

Makes: 16 falafel, which, for us, feeds about 4-6

  • 2 cups dried chickpeas
  • 4 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 cup packed parsley leaves and stems
  • 1 cup packed cilantro leaves and stems
  • 4 scallions (white and green parts), coarsely chopped
  • 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
  • 2 jalapeño peppers, stems, seeds and ribs removed, coarsely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon ground cumin
  • 1 tablespoon ground coriander
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 tablespoon sea salt (*I use Eden brand Celtic sea salt)
  • 1 ½ teaspoons baking soda
  • Tahini Yogurt Sauce for serving (see below)
  • Grapeseed oil for frying
  • Pita bread, shredded lettuce, feta for serving (optional)
  1. Starting 24 hours before you’re going to make the falafel (a.k.a. the evening before), put the chickpeas in a medium bowl and cover with boiling water.  Stir in 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.  Cover lightly and let sit at room temperature for 12 hours.  The next morning, drain the chickpeas and cover again with boiling water and the remaining 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.  Let sit at room temperature until dinnertime.  Drain and rinse the chickpeas before proceeding.
  2. In a food processor with the blade running, add the garlic cloves and chop.  Add the parsley and cilantro and finely chop.  Add the chickpeas and remaining ingredients except Tahini Yogurt Sauce and oil.  Process to a smooth puree, scraping down the sides as needed (this will take about 5 minutes—just let the machine rip).  Spread the mixture out in a 8- or 9-inch baking dish (this will help it cool faster); cover and freeze 20 minutes, or up to 1 hour.  While the mixture freezes, make the Tahini Yogurt Sauce (see below).
  3. Cut the falafel into 16 squares (this is just to help you portion it evenly).  Using your hands, shape the mixture into 16 patties, about 2 ½ inches wide (the mixture will be quite soft but should hold together without a problem).  Place the patties on a parchment- or wax-paper lined baking sheet.  If you have the time, cover the patties with plastic wrap and pop them in the freezer for 5-10 minutes (to help them to keep their shape when cooking). If you’re baking the falafel, preheat the oven to 450˚F with a rack in the upper third.  Do Ahead: The patties can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 hours.

To Fry: Pour 1 inch of oil into a large, heavy saucepan, preferably enameled cast iron.  Heat oil over medium-high until the oil shimmers (when you toss a crumb in it should start to bubble and float back up to the surface).  Add a few of the patties, making sure not to overcrowd the pot.  Cook 4-5 minutes, flipping the patties one or twice (a fish spatula works great for this), or until evenly golden brown all over.  Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer the falafel to a paper-towel lined baking sheet.  Cook the rest of the patties, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain the oil temperature.

To Bake: Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, and rub it generously with oil (don’t skimp on the oil, this is what will give the falafel their crust).  Place the baking sheet in the oven (on top third rack) for 1-2 minutes to preheat.  Remove pan from oven, and carefully place patties on top.  Brush tops of patties with more oil.  Bake 7-10 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom.  Flip the patties and cook an additional 5-6 minutes, or until golden brown on the other side.  Transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet.

Do Ahead: The falafel—baked or fried—can be made up to 30 minutes in advance.  Line on baking sheet and place in a 200˚F oven to keep warm.

4.  Serve the warm falafel drizzled with the Tahini Yogurt Sauce.  I prefer the falafel either over a lemony  salad or stuffed in pita bread with shredded lettuce.

*The falafel are also very tasty the next day.  Heat the patties on a foil-lined baking sheet in the oven or toaster oven until warmed through.

 

Tahini Yogurt Sauce

This bright and creamy sauce is the perfect accompaniment to the falafel.  It’s also delicious with minced parsley and/or mint folded in.  If you’re a sauce lover, you might want to double the recipe.

  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • ¼ cup tahini
  • Sea salt
  • ¼ cup cold water
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • ½ cup Greek yogurt
  • 1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  1. In a mini food processor with the motor running, add the garlic clove and process until finely chopped.  Add the tahini and a pinch of salt.  Start the motor and slowly drizzle in the water.  Scrape down the sides, and add the lemon juice, yogurt and 1 tablespoon olive oil; process until smooth.  Season with salt.  The sauce should taste nice and tart (so that it cuts through the richness of the falafel), but if it’s too sour—especially if you’re using fat free yogurt—whiz in another tablespoon of olive oil.  If you want a thinner texture, drizzle in some more water as well.   Do Ahead:  The Tahini Yogurt sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance.  Store in a covered container in the refrigerator.  Bring to room temperature before serving.